Sealing Products

*New wood products must to be sealed within seven days or warranty is void*

1. Exterior Maintenance Schedule – this isn’t what most customers want to hear, but some elevations may need to be stained/sealed more than others. What breaks down paints and stains is UV rays and water (dew, condensation, sitting snow, rain, etc.), and some areas will get more exposure than others. Shovel snow off of decks and away from windows, doors and sliders. If the stain breaks down on a window, door or slider, parts will move, expand and contract. When this happens this allows more areas for water to get in and cause the unit to slowly deteriorate.
2. Interior Maintenance Schedule – It is tough to estimate how often to clean and/or reseal interior wood. There are so many factors involved such as products previously used, heating system type/strength, relative humidity, sun exposure, proximity to moisture and also personal preference. However, you always want to ensure that water, condensation, humidity, steam and any other moisture cannot penetrate the sealant. This will cause the wood to swell and move, so this is especially important to check on windows, doors and sliders.
3. Trees & Shrubs – It is best to have a balance of growth around your home. If there are too many trees, then dew does not evaporate and your stain will not last. If there are not enough trees, there will be little shade to protect your home from damaging UV rays.
4. Weather Strip – Make sure all weather strip is fully intact. If water is allowed to get beyond the weather strip, the water will sit stagnant and break down the seal on the wood, which will slowly rot the unit.
5. Stain –
   • Make sure you are using the right product for the job. Not all stains are created equal. Seek a paint and stain professional and let them know the species of wood you have to determine the product to use.
   • The surface must be prepared (sanded, etc.) to receive the paint or stain. If you use the best sealant on a poorly prepared surface, it will fail. Therefore, it is imperative to prepare the surface of the wood (especially on new units) as per instructions on the can of the product that you are using.
   • Remove all hardware and weather strip prior to staining in order to thoroughly coat all surfaces of the wood. Failing to do so could damage the weather strip and/or the unit you are sealing. The most common areas missed and that may need to be stained more often than other areas are sills and the tops and bottoms of doors, windows and sliders.
   • Apply the stain as per the instructions on the can of the product you are using. If you apply stain on a humid day, it may not cure properly and could result in issues opening and closing, or may even damage the unit.
6. Mill glaze – When wood is cut or milled, the speed of the blades may cause the wood fibers on the surface of the wood to close and, thus, may require sanding before stain application. Please refer to “5b” above on how to properly prepare wood for stain. If this step is skipped, stain will not adhere properly and the wood will not be protected.
7. Matching Existing Stain – We have owners and builders who swear by Sikkens. Below is from an Olympic representative on interior stain, but it generally (colors) applies to the exterior as well. Both Sikkens and Olympic are owned by PPG Coatings.
8. The stain composition has changed over the years and along with natural weathering and age, there isn’t going to be any way to guarantee an exact match. The formulations/blending, that Deck House used are unique to your homes and is something that most retail customers wouldn’t necessarily duplicate due to the intermixing done. If you are on the East Coast, which has been impacted by the VOC regulations and the alkyd/linseed oil based stains, are no longer able to be purchased or sold in MA or MD. The color # 708 and 730 are still able to be tinted, but are no longer package colors. The stains are a “hybrid formula” now, Maximum acrylic/oil, and apply a bit differently and will not look the same as the older oil base stains from the 80s. The best suggestion I can make for you to better service your customers is to rematch the newer formulation Maximum to the older linseed oil base stain formulas you created, using your mixing ratios as a starting point. The tint base for the Maximum is product code 79550 and can be used a clear blending agent as well to “soften” the color.